UK Justice Forum 🇬🇧
Alleged Miscarriages of Justice => Jeremy Bamber and the callous murder of his father, mother, sister and twin nephews. Case effectively CLOSED by CCRC on basis of NO APPEAL REFERRAL. => Topic started by: Myster on June 07, 2016, 07:18:57 PM
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Questions for scipio...
This has probably been mentioned elsewhere in the past, but I missed it. How do you chamber a first round? Do you pull back the bolt (17) using the bolt handle (14), then insert the round through the ejection port forward of the deflector plate (28)? Or do you pull back the bolt handle (14) to allow the round to move from the magazine into the receiver chamber by itself ?
How do you remove the bolt (17), or rather the bolt assembly (11-22 inclusive) from the rifle to make it safe, if you were leaving it unused for a while?
The bolt handle (14) appears to be a push fit into a hole in the bolt (17) and is kept in position by a spring assembly (20, 21 and 22), so that it can easily be pulled out without using tools, i.e. held in position in a similar way to the gun cupboard door is when closed, by a ball catch. Is it necessary to remove this handle (14) first, before removing the bolt? How do you remove the bolt from the rifle without disassembling any other parts (such as the deflector plate) - do you try to pull it out through the ejection port by using your fingernail first at its forward end to hook it out?
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Questions for scipio...
This has probably been mentioned elsewhere in the past, but I missed it. How do you chamber a first round? Do you pull back the bolt (17) using the bolt handle (14), then insert the round through the ejection port forward of the deflector plate (28)? Or do you pull back the bolt handle (14) to allow the round to move from the magazine into the receiver chamber by itself ?
How do you remove the bolt (17), or rather the bolt assembly (11-22 inclusive) from the rifle to make it safe, if you were leaving it unused for a while?
The bolt handle (14) appears to be a push fit into a hole in the bolt (17) and is kept in position by a spring assembly (20, 21 and 22), so that it can easily be pulled out without using tools, i.e. held in position in a similar way to the gun cupboard door is when closed, by a ball catch. Is it necessary to remove this handle (14) first, before removing the bolt? How do you remove the bolt from the rifle without disassembling any other parts (such as the deflector plate) - do you try to pull it out through the ejection port by using your fingernail first at its forward end to hook it out?
To charge the weapon you first insert a loaded magazine then manually pull back the bolt and release it. The bolt will return forward and force the top round in the magazine into the chamber. It is an easy maneuver but one that you must know to do. If you simply insert the magazine and pull the trigger nothing is going to happen.
With a bolt action rifle you need to manually work the bolt every single time for that reason the bolt handle is towards the back as oppose to the side. A semi-auto in contrast the gasses from the first round will work the bolt and thus automatically eject the spent casing and load a new round.
The only real reason to remove the bolt would be to clean it. While it is not difficult I never heard of anyone leaving a gun partially assembled with the bolt hidden so it could not be used. You want your gun to remain together as much as possible. If you plan to not use your weapon for a long period and want to ensure no one uses it then remove the firing pin that is the best option not hiding the bolt. In that manner you don't have to worry about the bolt or anything else getting damaged and not properly fitting. Moreover the barrel easily removes by a single screw so if wanting to store it you could just unscrew the barrel and keep it in 2 halves.
But to answer your question first you remove the trigger assembly and then you will be able to pull out the bolt handle though it will take finding the proper alignment to get it out. Then the entire bolt will be able to easily come out. There are some springs inside so you will have to know where they go to reassemble it properly.
Just storing it like this would be good enough especially if you hide the screw then it can't be used:
(http://www.asesivut.net/kuvaboksi/albums/userpics/10001/normal_ansu525_5.jpg)
AP had a bolt action rifle. Everything significant is contained within the bolt and the bolt is at the rear of the weapon. Removing the bolt and taking it away leaves the weapon unusable except as a club.
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Well observed Scipio. You're right I haven't argued for more than one silencer as I've never been convinced. And even if there was more than one floating around I can't see how the labelling/administration comes close to denting the blood flake/silencer evidence which imo underpins JB's conviction.
If one wanted to doctor a moderator you would doctor 1 not several. So the entire premise of doctoring several is just silly. There was only 1 moderator purchased by Nevill and it was the only one at WHF at the time of the murders. You would doctor that moderator if you wanted to doctor 1. Given this fact and the fact that there is a fully rational reason for the moderator changing designations and evidence to support it was done for legitimate reasons it is a total waste of time bothering with such.
Yet Mike, the Campaign Team and David among other supporters make this a central part of their argument. It boggles the mind...
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To charge the weapon you first insert a loaded magazine then manually pull back the bolt and release it. The bolt will return forward and force the top round in the magazine into the chamber. It is an easy maneuver but one that you must know to do. If you simply insert the magazine and pull the trigger nothing is going to happen.
With a bolt action rifle you need to manually work the bolt every single time for that reason the bolt handle is towards the back as oppose to the side. A semi-auto in contrast the gasses from the first round will work the bolt and thus automatically eject the spent casing and load a new round.
The only real reason to remove the bolt would be to clean it. While it is not difficult I never heard of anyone leaving a gun partially assembled with the bolt hidden so it could not be used. You want your gun to remain together as much as possible. If you plan to not use your weapon for a long period and want to ensure no one uses it then remove the firing pin that is the best option not hiding the bolt. In that manner you don't have to worry about the bolt or anything else getting damaged and not properly fitting. Moreover the barrel easily removes by a single screw so if wanting to store it you could just unscrew the barrel and keep it in 2 halves.
But to answer your question first you remove the trigger assembly and then you will be able to pull out the bolt handle though it will take finding the proper alignment to get it out. Then the entire bolt will be able to easily come out. There are some springs inside so you will have to know where they go to reassemble it properly.
Just storing it like this would be good enough especially if you hide the screw then it can't be used:
(http://www.asesivut.net/kuvaboksi/albums/userpics/10001/normal_ansu525_5.jpg)
AP had a bolt action rifle. Everything significant is contained within the bolt and the bolt is at the rear of the weapon. Removing the bolt and taking it away leaves the weapon unusable except as a club.
It looks very simple to me as there are so few options and components. If I lift the bonnet of my car I wouldn't know where to begin. In fact I have got mixed up over the water in the radiator ? and water in the wipers *&*%£
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If one wanted to doctor a moderator you would doctor 1 not several. So the entire premise of doctoring several is just silly. There was only 1 moderator purchased by Nevill and it was the only one at WHF at the time of the murders. You would doctor that moderator if you wanted to doctor 1. Given this fact and the fact that there is a fully rational reason for the moderator changing designations and evidence to support it was done for legitimate reasons it is a total waste of time bothering with such.
Yet Mike, the Campaign Team and David among other supporters make this a central part of their argument. It boggles the mind...
That's about how I see it. Although I have recently stumbled across some info which is a bit ambiguous about when/if the silencer was subjected to the fuming chamber. I'm not sure if there's a connection here with labels changing in terms of keeping the chamber from the lab/defence. I'll post later today or tomorrow when I have more time.
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To charge the weapon you first insert a loaded magazine then manually pull back the bolt and release it. The bolt will return forward and force the top round in the magazine into the chamber. It is an easy maneuver but one that you must know to do. If you simply insert the magazine and pull the trigger nothing is going to happen.
With a bolt action rifle you need to manually work the bolt every single time for that reason the bolt handle is towards the back as oppose to the side. A semi-auto in contrast the gasses from the first round will work the bolt and thus automatically eject the spent casing and load a new round.
The only real reason to remove the bolt would be to clean it. While it is not difficult I never heard of anyone leaving a gun partially assembled with the bolt hidden so it could not be used. You want your gun to remain together as much as possible. If you plan to not use your weapon for a long period and want to ensure no one uses it then remove the firing pin that is the best option not hiding the bolt. In that manner you don't have to worry about the bolt or anything else getting damaged and not properly fitting. Moreover the barrel easily removes by a single screw so if wanting to store it you could just unscrew the barrel and keep it in 2 halves.
But to answer your question first you remove the trigger assembly and then you will be able to pull out the bolt handle though it will take finding the proper alignment to get it out. Then the entire bolt will be able to easily come out. There are some springs inside so you will have to know where they go to reassemble it properly.
Just storing it like this would be good enough especially if you hide the screw then it can't be used:
(http://www.asesivut.net/kuvaboksi/albums/userpics/10001/normal_ansu525_5.jpg)
AP had a bolt action rifle. Everything significant is contained within the bolt and the bolt is at the rear of the weapon. Removing the bolt and taking it away leaves the weapon unusable except as a club.
I can see now why it would be virtually impossible to remove the bolt through the ejection port... it's just too large and unyielding, so really the only way is by disassembling the rifle into two parts as in your photo, then tipping the rear part up so that the bolt drops out through the newly-opened end.
As I mentioned before though, the bolt handle (14) doesn't seem to be permanently fixed to the bolt, but its shaft is inserted through a drilled hole in the bolt and held in position by a simple sprung mechanism (20, 21 and 22). Therefore for safety's sake to prevent the bolt from being pulled back easily, thus cocking the trigger, this handle is easily removed by pulling it out with just your fingers and then stored away from the rifle.
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It looks very simple to me as there are so few options and components. If I lift the bonnet of my car I wouldn't know where to begin. In fact I have got mixed up over the water in the radiator ? and water in the wipers *&*%£
Remember the occasion when you filled up your diesel-engined car with petrol? 8(8-))
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It looks very simple to me as there are so few options and components. If I lift the bonnet of my car I wouldn't know where to begin. In fact I have got mixed up over the water in the radiator ? and water in the wipers *&*%£
Thing is Holly, top up when the car is warm, if on removing the cap it goes woosh and spits hot water in your face then thats the radiator top up. If it doesn't then that's the water reservoir for the screen wash. Hope this helps? 8)--))
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Remember the occasion when you filled up your diesel-engined car with petrol? 8(8-))
I once put diesel in my petrol-engined car. Ooooooops!!!!!!
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I once put diesel in my petrol-engined car. Ooooooops!!!!!!
Your best-kept secret is safe with us! @)(++(*
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Remember the occasion when you filled up your diesel-engined car with petrol? 8(8-))
I'm too much of a petrol head but I'm surprised I haven't over the years filled up with diesel instead of petrol!
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Thing is Holly, top up when the car is warm, if on removing the cap it goes woosh and spits hot water in your face then thats the radiator top up. If it doesn't then that's the water reservoir for the screen wash. Hope this helps? 8)--))
@)(++(* That sounds like when a water cooler went and even though the dash was bleeping and sending messages STOP I continued until steam was obstructing my view! I usually only stop when the car literally stops and then call for assistance! I did look in the manual and it said as an emergency put some water in the radiator but it did make clear to let it cool before opening.
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@)(++(* That sounds like when a water cooler went and even though the dash was bleeping and sending messages STOP I continued until steam was obstructing my view! I usually only stop when the car literally stops and then call for assistance! I did look in the manual and it said as an emergency put some water in the radiator but it did make clear to let it cool before opening.
holly never open the cap when the car has been running,you will need plastic surgery if you do. 8(0(*